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    October 22

    云之南,心之畔——卷六·火炉上的冰川

    DAY5-929-飞来寺日出—明永冰川—原路返回香格里拉(住香格里拉古城)

    人物:扎布,大王,爱美丽,MM,石大爷,KAY,小洪。

     

    翻过卡瓦格博,在寒冷彻骨的冰封世界身后,坐落着全世界最美丽的村庄——雨崩,那里只有区区十几户人家,电也是不久前刚通的。现代资源的贫乏却让这里得天独厚的自然馈赠越发憾世稀贵,诱了中国的,外国的,年轻的,年老的迢迢千里,翻山越岭一窥它的迷人。据扎布说,从梅里山角下进入雨崩,需要在还没有开通公路的山沟上不停地翻爬8-10个小时,才能顺利抵达那里。而所有到过那里的人却无不被它的美与真所震撼。可惜,由于时间和体力,它不在我们的行程之内,在开往明永的路上,我们放眼雪山,臆想着那背后的精彩。有缘,终有一日会相见。

     

    明永冰川,千年不化,坚若寒玉,酷似碧琼。我们骑着骡子,沿着之字形的山沟慢慢地攀,身畔是潺潺溪流,树荫下虽微风徐徐,灼热的日光却从每一个狭小的缝隙中逼进。明永在藏语中意为火炉,在晴天的照耀下,温度可达30-40度,但坚冰依然不化,神奇可见一斑。明永其实是卡瓦博格山下的一条冰川,爬上明永,也就意味着我们到了这次行程中最接近梅里的地方。当我们下了骡子,连走带爬地登上最后一个观景台时,冰与雪的瑰丽画卷终于那么近地映入我们的眼帘,你需要的是聆听、凝视、祈祷,让这个时空里的每一个细节和着你的每一次呼吸纳入体内,一次再一次,这种感觉难以言喻的美好。用这作为梅里四日的结局,足以铭刻心底,完满至臻。

     

    扎布笑话4:死也要走出去

    扎布去年的时候带过一对小夫妻去雨崩,谁知女孩子体力太差,出来的时候怎么也走不动了。带的行李又太多又重,最后连男生也吃不消了。可是在这地方,如果天黑了还不走出去,就有危险了。扎布越看越担心,结果找了根绳子,把两个人的行李往身上一栓,再把绳子往两个人腰里一系,活脱脱把这对小夫妻拉出了雨崩。

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