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    October 24

    云之南,心之畔——卷七•今天我住大宅门

    DAY6-9月30日-香格里拉—石鼓,长江第一湾(上观景台观长江第一湾全景)-拉市海(骑马茶马古道,视个人需求)—束河,束河闲逛(住束河古镇)
    人物:扎布,大王,爱美丽,MM,石大爷,KAY,小洪。
     
    终于,一路南下,听着“石人对石鼓,白银万万两”的传说,顺着长江第一湾的壮阔曲线,  又回到了风光旖旎的丽江。
     
    茶马道,驼铃悠
    今天,拉市海的传统游玩项目是骑马泛舟,在依然保留的一段短短的茶马古道上,骑着身材小,耐力佳的滇马,和着阵阵驼铃袅袅,我们六人一队,徐徐前行。宛如当年的马帮,载着沉重的货物,在危险崎岖的山路上,经年累月地实行贸易的往来,架起国与国之间沟通的纽带。一条茶马古道历经多少岁月,留下多少故事,如今都尽归这马蹄溅起落花香的黄尘厚土。
     
    又逢岛上游
    自厦门回来之后,我便对岛产生独特的喜好。鼓浪屿,隔世独立,惹人遥望的绝美意境一直是我流连于脑海不能抹去的。而拉市海上的岛更妙,只是小小的方寸之地,上头的景物却精致得如同盆景,但又不见人工雕琢的痕迹。在拉市海,我还找到了小时候明信片上看到的那个美妙画面:水中长出的树,婆娑妖娆,亭亭玉立,出淤泥,濯清涟,却落得澄净挺拔。海上一座岛,水中一叶舟,鱼在水中游,人在树下栖。一回头看到的便是一幅画,而你冷不防便成为别人镜中的景。
     
    百花深处叩宅门
    旁晚时分,正是束河最迷人的光景,我们一路归来,也算是风尘仆仆。束河虽是和丽江紧挨着的古镇,但是这里的客栈却又有所不同了。如果丽江是小家碧玉,那么这里就出落得几个大家闺秀了。有一家叫“正福草堂-书香门第”,大堂里摆着古琴和焚香,门口的海报上这样写“咖啡香浓,茗茶醇醴,停云暂憩,何妨闲庭漫步……” 一看便知,主人定是个雅士。“大宅门”是我们今天投宿的地方,一对北京夫妇开的,硕大的院子里种着几十年的柿子树,再过一个月,果子也就快熟了,树下照样摆着让人一看就倍感亲切的茶具。还有三条面貌凶相,实则酷爱撒娇的大狗。一踏进门,心里泛起一句话:我第一次来这里,但我回家了。
     
    人说百花地深处,住着老情人缝着绣花鞋
    面容安详的老人,依旧等待着那出征的归人
    我已等待了几千年,为何良人不回来……
     
    扎布笑话5:你这个笨孩子!
    扎布听我们说是上海来的,就讲了个有关上海人不痛不痒的笑话:前几年带了上海一个三口之家来这里玩,走过一段山路,只见野猪满山跑。10岁左右的孩子就兴奋地冲着妈妈喊:妈妈,牦牛牦牛!他妈一看,皱着眉就骂儿子:你这个笨孩子,什么牦牛啊,那是藏獒!

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